Sabato De Sarno, the designer who was primarily unknown exterior the trade till he was handed the keys to the $10 billion Gucci kingdom earlier this yr and tasked with reinventing a model that had already been reinvented twice earlier than — as soon as by Tom Ford, as a uniform for sultry energy gamers after which once more by Alessandro Michele as a big-tent haven for trend freakazoids excessive and low — known as his first assortment “Ancora.”
That interprets actually as “again.” However, he stated in an interview a number of weeks earlier than the present, not once more as in a retread, like “play it again, Sam” however because the “again, again, again” of want: the sensation that, while you discover one thing you’re keen on, you’ll be able to by no means get sufficient. The feeing that, presumably, Gucci sparked in him, and that he (and his bosses) had been hoping his Gucci would spark in customers.
The phrase was plastered throughout posters round Milan teasing the present, on the invites in a brand new Gucci burgundy purple often called Ancora purple and on the sleeve of a vinyl document for the after-party. It was onerous to flee.
And although it was a pleasant thought, it was the mistaken title for the present. It could have made extra sense if Mr. De Sarno had known as his assortment “Intermezzo.” As a result of that’s actually what this assortment was (or gave the impression to be): not a serious assertion, however fairly a cleaning interregnum after the overblown muchness of Mr. Michele’s tenure.
Solely as a substitute of lemon sorbet with a sprig of mint, Mr. De Sarno served up a stark darkish wool overcoat and matching darkish wool micro shorts with a white tank prime, a GG belt and a splash of legs on the facet, a slight splash of coloration coming within the traditional Gucci red-and-green-webbing tacked contained in the vent of the coat and an Ancora purple Jackie bag.
Lengths had been nearly universally brief: thigh excessive, elongated much more by the addition of chunky stacked loafers. The colour palette was subdued: black, white, beige, blues, that purple, with a contact of neon inexperienced. There was little print, save for the outdated GG monogram introduced again on playsuits and a patent leather-based mini A-line tank gown.
The only real ornament was a little bit of high-bling crosshatch crystal embroidery derived from an archive bag and used sparingly on bra tops, the unfold collar of a ribbed navy knit and the rim of a white apron prime worn with a pair of saggy denims. Plus some glowing fringe that flew out with each step on an Ancora purple skirt (proven with one other easy tank prime) and a chartreuse coat. Lace-trimmed lingerie clothes had been paired with plain outdated on a regular basis jackets, like somebody had woken up, grabbed the primary cover-up that got here handy and gone out to stroll the dachshund.
If it didn’t precisely incite the pulse-thumping want of want (it didn’t), if it didn’t instantly blare “New Mood for Fashion” (it didn’t), it did set a tone. Consider it as a breeze, fairly than a wind, of change. Gucci has been loads of issues, but it surely has by no means been minimal. Maybe it’s time.
The truth that the largest star on a entrance row crammed with stars was Julia Roberts, a girl of a sure age and her personal retiring disposition — versus, say, Harry Types or Jared Leto — was not an insignificant element (she was sporting an extended model of the micro shorts on the runway; presumably that would be the case in-store). Nor was the truth that the present was imagined to be held within the afternoon within the streets of the Brera district, however bought rained out on the final minute and was compelled indoors.
It’s too unhealthy, as a result of that concept, like Ms. Roberts, is a clue to the brand new Gucci. For Mr. Ford and Mr. Michele, Gucci got here alive after darkish or by the glare (and small display) of the smartphone. Mr. De Sarno needs to convey it into the sunshine of day. The higher to start out, properly — once more. He did that. What actually issues is what he does subsequent.